Looks like the big brokers partnered with Copart are Auto Bid Master, Salvage Reseller, and A Better Bid. Has anyone here used two or more of them? Would appreciate some feedback on which one to go with.
I’ve used Auto Bid Master. They were pricey, but everything went smoothly.
Bevan said:
I’ve used Auto Bid Master. They were pricey, but everything went smoothly.
How did you handle the payment? My bank thinks this account seems shady. Any info would help, thanks.
@Nova
Maybe try a different broker.
Bevan said:
I’ve used Auto Bid Master. They were pricey, but everything went smoothly.
They still won’t give me my deposit back. Really frustrating.
Before using a broker, make sure you actually need one. Copart has a good selection of vehicles that don’t require a license, so no broker is needed. Auto Bid Master allows live bidding if you get their advanced or premium membership, which is the best way to bid (don’t pre-bid on anything). Other brokers make you submit a max bid and they bid for you, which isn’t ideal. Just keep in mind, you still pay all of Copart’s fees on top of the broker fees.
@Skylar
Thanks for that! After I posted this, I actually won a bid with A Better Bid. It was quite a hassle though, mostly because they weren’t clear about the process.
The first issue was with inspecting the vehicle. Their website says you can inspect in person, but when I got to the Copart location, I needed a safety vest, a bidder number, and had to pay a fee. I wasn’t prepared for that, but the staff was nice enough to offer me a vest. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a bidder number until I reached out to A Better Bid support, but by then, it was too late.
The next problem was getting the vehicle after I won. Their website says you can’t drive the vehicle off the lot, but the yard manager told me I could with a Temporary Operating Permit (TOP) from the DMV. I couldn’t get the TOP without starting the registration process, but A Better Bid doesn’t give you the title, just some paperwork you take to the DMV to get it. So, in the end, I had to use their recommended transport service, which ended up being double the online quote due to my location being in a mountain area and extra COVID fees. I eventually had them tow the vehicle to a nearby yard, and from there, I was able to drive it.
If you’re thinking about buying a cheap vehicle through a broker, be ready to pay at least twice your winning bid with all the fees and transport costs. Also, don’t expect to drive it off the lot yourself. And if you plan on inspecting the vehicle, bring a safety vest, your bidder number, and some cash for the inspection fee (around $35).
@Crosby
Thanks for the review! I was looking at brokers too, and it’s been hard to find real experiences like this. Why isn’t it as easy as they say? Pay the broker fee, get your car… if only it was that simple.
@Haru
Yeah, totally agree.
@Crosby
Thanks for the review. Other than taxes, are there any hidden fees not shown in the fee calculator on A Better Bid?
Lucypiper said:
@Crosby
Thanks for the review. Other than taxes, are there any hidden fees not shown in the fee calculator on A Better Bid?
I had a bad experience with one of the brokers listed on Copart. I got my deposit back, but I’d recommend paying with a card that’s easy to dispute charges with, just in case.
Has anyone had a good experience with any broker? Please share which one.
I bought a Dodge truck in June 2024 through Salvage Reseller at a Copart auction. Like others said, the fees are high, and getting the title can take a while. I found a great transport service, and they got the truck to me (Arkansas to FL) in just three days for a reasonable price.
However, paying and picking up the truck was a nightmare. You have to pay right away, or you get hit with more fees. I wired the money, but Salvage Reseller didn’t acknowledge receiving it until the next day, even though my bank confirmed it went through the same day. They also took the full two months to get me the title.
The truck had a bunch of hidden issues, like a broken jack mount and missing tools, plus the wrong wheels, and a flat tire by the time it arrived. Worst part is, the odometer was never hooked up, so now I’m stuck with a “not actual miles” title. Salvage Reseller blamed it on the finance company, but they could’ve easily fixed it if they had checked.
If I had to do it over, I’d just buy from a private seller on Craigslist, even if it cost more.
I’ll always recommend Salvage Reseller as the best broker.
Dru said:
I’ll always recommend Salvage Reseller as the best broker.
Is it pretty easy to use them? I’ve bought from Copart before, and while the fees are high, it’s manageable if you keep your bid low.
@Jovi
Yeah, but remember, you’ll still pay both the broker fee and Copart’s fee. A $300 winning bid can easily turn into $700 with fees. Go with a broker if you don’t have a dealer’s license.
Dru said:
@Jovi
Yeah, but remember, you’ll still pay both the broker fee and Copart’s fee. A $300 winning bid can easily turn into $700 with fees. Go with a broker if you don’t have a dealer’s license.
I’m in a state that requires a dealer’s license, so a broker is my only option. Thanks for the info!
@Jovi
Same here. Broker is definitely the way to go in that case.
Dru said:
I’ll always recommend Salvage Reseller as the best broker.
Can you pick up the vehicle yourself and get the title as you would if you bid directly through Copart when using Salvage Reseller?
@Jules
No, you can’t. Salvage Reseller won’t let you bid on cars in your own state (at least in some states like California), and you need a broker to handle the paperwork for you, so you can’t just pick up the vehicle yourself.